Monday September 23, 2019
NAXOS, Greece – Let’s trade the beach for history. Sounds like a plan, done deal.
On Monday, we arranged to rent a car for travels throughout Naxos and paid a 20 euro deposit the night before. The clerk at the desk said the car rental place would open at 8:30 in the morning, so we arranged to pick up the car at that time. The rate was 30 euros for one day and we owed the balance of 10 euros at pickup.
Ready for the day, we packed a cooler with fruit and drinks and decided to have lunch and dinner along the way. It’s about a 15-20 minute walk to the car rental location at the port and we left around 8:45.
When we arrived, we told the clerk about our reservation and deposit.
“May I see your driver’s license?” she asked. Pulled that quickly and then she asked, “may I see your international drivers license?”
“I don’t have one,” was my reply.
“So sorry, I cannot rent without one. It’s a new rule of the European Union. Took place about a year ago.”
We tried to reason that we actually have an international drivers license but must have left that at home. Again, “so sorry,” was her reply.
Since reasoning was not option, I asked for the 20 euro deposit be returned.
“I’ll have to check with the boss,” she said. “He’s coming soon.”
After about 10 minutes, she picked up her cell phone and started in Greek. After a few minutes, she came back and said she was permitted to rent the car without the international drivers license. So, we gave her the remaining 10 euros and off we went into the hills of Naxos.
First stop was “history,” and we arrived at the archaeological site at Yiroulas, Sangri. This is the remains of a Doric temple which dates to the 6th century BC. The remains include the east-west facade, internal columns and parts of the walls. The building stands next to a Greek church and both co-exist on the site.
Down a path from the remains is a small museum and that’s devoted to what was found on the site. Most are fragmented parts of marble, sculptures and internal column walls.
Overall, we spent about 90 minutes and then took off for a village in the interior which was recommended by the host of our property. We found Halki, a charming maze of alleys filled with shops, mostly selling textiles and woven goods, and few restaurants. After a few obligatory purchases, we stopped for lunch at Caffe Greco, where we shared a Greek salad and club sandwich which came with, of course, fries. That was probably the best lunch we’ve had to date and completed with a stop at the local bakery for dessert.
Back in the car and this time, we drove directly north to the fishing village of Apollonas. There, we found a small beach, maybe 50 yards across and about 15-20 yards in width. A few people were on the beach and waterfront was lined with a few restaurants. We found a park beach overlooking the beach and had our dessert.
After lounging, as we assume that’s what people do on holiday, we decided to find popular beaches on the northwest corner of the island. That would put us close to Naxos Town and our apartment.
As we found in Crete, driving in Naxos is a similar challenge. The roads are narrow, one lane at best, and especially difficult through small towns and villages. Many times, one car must pull as far to the side as possible and stop so the car, truck or bus in the opposite direction, may proceed. The terrain is steep and a plethora of switch-backs is the norm. I can’t remember any stretch of road more than one or two kilometers at best as a straight-away. The time lost is substantial, so if you’re in a hurry to drive in Naxos, you’ll never make your destination on time.
We never made it to any beaches along the way and decided to just to drive back to Naxos Town, the main population area on the island, and where we are staying.
We arrived back at the apartment around 5:30 and parked in a small lot across from a church. When you exit a small walkway from our apartment, the church is on the left.
About dinner tonight, we’re uncertain. We’ll probably walk down the port and junk out with a chicken gyro. Seriously, after climbing and descending the hills of Naxos today, I truly don’t feel like getting back behind the wheel.
Off to Plaka beach tomorrow, our favorite beach. Right now, we’re seriously, VERY seriously, considering coming back to Plaka for an extended stay next summer. I think we’ve finally found the beach for which we have been searching for many years.
WEATHER, sunny, mid 80s .. pretty much perfect
PICTURES – Images from our travels around Naxos.
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