Wednesday October 16, 2019
Thursday October 17, 2019
Friday October 18, 2019
JERUSALEM, Israel – Time to catch up on a few lost days.
Because we put in close to a combined 43,000 steps (about 16 miles) for the three, full days we were in Tel Aviv, we returned to our apartment each night beyond exhausted. Simply for that reason, I did not write on Wednesday and Thursday nights and totally crashed.
We left Tel Aviv Friday morning on a 10:30 a.m. bus, bound for Jerusalem and made arrangements to arrive at our airbnb property around 3 in the afternoon. Because it’s Friday, we had to be careful and make sure buses were running. Israel observes Shabbat, or the day of rest, from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday and the country, pretty much, shuts down. No public transportation, no restaurants are open and no business conducted.
We’re staying in East Jerusalem and there is a mosque just to the right of our property. That means we are in the Arab sector and some establishments, we figure, are bound to be open. Plus, the bus we need to take, we were told, is operated by an Arab company and runs Friday night and Saturday.
The bus from Tel Aviv was quite efficient and cost only 15 sheqels, or around $4.25 each. In about one hour, we arrived at the central bus station in Jerusalem and ready to resume our journey.
First, let’s back-track and review our stay in Tel Aviv.
While our apartment was deplorable and we would not even think about renting this to anyone, the location was good. Because Tel Aviv is located on the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea, it’s developed as a beach resort. High-rise buildings cover most of the beach area and it’s been called the “Miami Beach of the Mediterranean.” We were about a 15-minute walk to the beach and a short bus ride to Old Jaffa, considered the oldest port in the world.
Of three days and four nights, we went to the beach two days and visited the Tel Aviv art museum on the other day. On Thursday, our last full day, we took in a few hours at the beach, walked back to the apartment, showered and then took the number 25 bus to the Museum of the Jewish People, an impressive museum on the campus of Tel Aviv University.
To reach the bus, we walked through Carmel Market to Allenby Street, a major boulevard and where we caught the 25 bus. While we stayed near Old Jaffa in the southwest part of the city, Tel Aviv University is located in the northeast section. The bus ride took about 45 minutes and arrived at night.
Walking through campus to the museum, we were the only people and to make this more eerie, we were the only two in the museum for over the 90 minutes we spent. Approaching the front desk, we were told most of the permanent collection is not available and only three galleries were open. The clerk gave us a 50 percent discount and we paid 40 sheqels, or about $5.50 each.
Of the three exhibits open, one presented Jewish humor, and the emphasis was on Jewish-American comedians, including Jerry Seinfeld, the Marx brothers, Jerry Lewis, Danny Kaye, Wood Allen, Lenny Bruce and others. Curiously, missing was Jackie Mason, who is an ordained rabbi and one of our favorites.
We laughed through the gallery and other galleries included a history of synagogues and a photography gallery. Here, the work work of Dawid Szymin (Chim), a Polish-Jewish photographer was emphasized, and Chim became famous for capturing images of the Spanish Civil War and post-World War II Europe.
We left the museum about 9:30, found our way back to Allenby Blvd. and our favorite kebab place. Open 24 hours, we knew what ever time we returned, a great Mediterranean dinner awaited.
Tel Aiv had its moments and, talking to people, we were told there are great neighborhoods. We walked through several and one night, we actually walked out of three restaurants. Two because the menu was quite limited and in the third, the prices were outrageous. Fish and chips on the menu came with a $45 price tag. Turning to Waynette, I simply said, “Never paid more than $17 or $18 at home for this, and not coming close to that 45. I’m walking,” lifted myself up and disappeared on the sidewalks.
One section, promoted to have a great nightlife, was Tel Aviv port. We walked around that area one day and searched restaurants for dinner. Found little there but high prices and finally settled on that kebab place on Allenby.
To be honest, three nights to judge a city is not fair, and I’m the first to admit. The museums are informative and the art museum contained several masters, including Picasso, the Impressionists, a Paul Rebens and the largest collection of Israeli art in the world.
On Friday, and because of Shabbat, we were out of the apartment early and at the bus station by 10. Rejecting a public bus to the central Tel Aviv bus station, we opted for a cab and that cost us about 35 sheqels, about $10.
Once we arrived in Jerusalem, the search was on to find the airbnb. Quickly, Waynette pulled out the GPS and showed that we take the number 1 bus to the 274 bus to the property. We did, and eventually changed to the 3 bus. Then, walked about two blocks to a bus terminal where we caught the 274. Wasn’t quite that easy and dragging all of our stuff became heavy and a physical challenge.
Later, we found out that the number one “bus” is a tram and that takes us directly to the 274 bus depot.
Nonetheless, we took the 274, which runs Friday night and Saturday and part of the Jerusalem-Ramallah Bus Company.
As the bus entered the Arab area, the driver stopped and two Israeli soldiers, each armed with a machine gun, entered. Passengers know this is a check point and had ID cards at the ready. One soldier moved to the back of the bus, where Waynette was seated, and I was standing in the front with all of our luggage. When one solider approached, I said, “American. Do you need to see my passport?”
“No,” and moved to the next passenger.
Meanwhile, Waynette tracked a stop near the property, we exited the bus and began walking. We turned on a side street and stopped to check the GPS. A guy pulled over and asked if he could help. Turns out, this was his neighborhood and knows the area. After making a small delivery, he caught up with us at a round-about, piled the suitcases into his car and drove us, about one block, as it turned out, to the property. We thanked him and then called the owner. She told Waynette Joseph would be right over.
In a few minutes, Joseph, riding his bike, appeared and opened the property. He gave wifi information, showed us the washer and dryer, returned with batteries for the remote control to operate the TV and generally said if there is anything , he’s happy to help. Joseph told us he’s from the Philippines and in Israel about 10 years. He’s trying to obtain permanent residence but complained the process is very slow and crawls if it moves at all.
We then gathered up a cloth bag, took the 274 bus to a mini mart, where this Arab establishment was open, and stocked up on eggs, cheese, veggies and other things to get us through the next few days. Because we’re limited on Saturday, plans are uncertain.
We leave late Saturday night on an overnight bus to Eilat and gateway to Petra in Jordan. This will be expensive but one of the most dynamic places on the planet. We can’t pass this up!
WEATHER – Tel Aviv was hot and humid and temps in the upper 80s. By contrast, Jerusalem is cooler with no humidity and we immediately felt the difference.
STEPS ON FRIDAY – Even though this was a travel day, we managed 6000 steps or nearly three miles.
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