Wednesday October 30, 2019
RAMALLAH, West Bank, Palestine – Over the past century, even centuries, land in present day Israel has been a commodity valued and despised, revered and treasured, vilified and protected.
The on-going conflict between Israel and neighboring Arab countries remains contentious at best and volatile at the least. Traveling through this area the last two weeks, there is a sense of resolve that both sides coexist in a relatively violence-free environment. If there is the occasional flare-up, that captures world headlines. Here, you get the feeling Palestinians regard Israel as occupiers in their land and resent the constant check points and always at the ready to identify themselves as simply worthy.
For a few hours before leaving Israel, I wanted an opportunity to see life in the West Bank and ask questions. Our airbnb host Omar arranged for a driver and that’s because our Israeli rental car is not permitted in the Palestinian Territories.
Before Mahmud was to arrive at 8:30, we packed the treasures for another travel day and prepared to leave the house by 1 pm. That would give us enough time to drive to the Tel Aviv airport (about a 45-minute drive) and survive layers of expected security.
Arriving in a white Mercedes, Mahmud told us he’s an entrepreneur and runs a transportation service. That includes tour buses, mini buses and taxis. Crossing into Palestine each day is a protracted experience, he said, and that’s because of the volume of both foot and vehicle traffic. Crossing around 9 a.m., he pointed out, the delay this day was not unusual and proceeded through the streets.
Supporting Mahmud’s contention there is hardly a Palestinian middle class, the usual street scenes prevail. From the time we spent in Jordan, we could also see here small shopkeepers, people about in daily life and the plethora of crowded streets and honking hours.
In time, we arrived at the grave of Yasir Arafat, and the Arafat Museum. Quickly, we told Mahmud we’d like to visit the museum and ask he meet us at the gate around 11:30. He agreed and we proceeded inside.
From the entrance, we proceeded into the galleries. While the format is chronological, the layout makes demands on the visitor. Beginning on the left side, the subsequent panel forces the visitor to slide to the right side, back the left, back to the right and do on. The opening gallery begins in the early 20th century and documents the Zionists and their promotion of Palestine as the natural homeland of the Jewish people.
From that origin, the Palestinian story evolves with Arafat at the center of its 20th century history. The emphasis remains on the desire to have a two-state solution and violent “roadblocks” Palestinians suffered from the Israeli military. Save one photograph of one of the twin towers destroyed on 9-11, there is no other reference to Palestinian terrorism.
There is a small, but ambitious gallery, devoted to paintings and sculptures by recent Palestinian women. Completing this display by 12 artists, we returned to car and told Muhmud it is getting late and we should return to the apartment. Joseph who opened the property for us, was scheduled to collect the key around 1 pm or so.
“So, Muhmud,” I said, sitting in the front seat. “what is it the Palestinians want?”
“A return to 1948,” he replied.
The reference here refers to the political landscape prior to Israel’s triumph in its 1948 war of independence.
That would clearly rewrite history and significantly alter the existing political geography. Certainly, Israel would never agree and would never attempt to engage in such conversation.
For me, this seems at the heart of the discussion and the debate remains protracted and endless.
Just before 1, we reached the apartment and shortly thereafter, Joseph arrived to collect the key.
We proceeded, without issue, to return the car and checked in at the El Al desk at the Tel Aviv airport.
markstravelblog2019 