Sunday September 22, 2019

NAXOS, Greece – Time to catch up on a few things.

First, I sincerely apologize for not posting pictures. Since I have my laptop back and I’m able to pull up the blog on my iPhone, I’ll post pictures beginning with this entry.

For today, Sunday, this was a terrific beach day. The west coast of Naxos had most of the best beaches on the island and we selected Plaka, about 10 kilometers southwest from the port.

After three months last summer in Europe and back again, I’m thinking in kilometers these days, and not miles, and euros and not dollars. Guess the Europe thing in settling in and it’s a great feeling.

Anyway, we took the bus to Plaka. It’s 2 euros each, one way, and the bus stop is literately outside of our door. Of course, the bus stop is front of a bakery and the bread this morning was amazing. Crunchy on the outside and a kind of sourdough on the inside. Can’t find anything close to this in any American supermarket or bakery.

Waynette made a great Greek salad for lunch and the two containers fit neatly in our cooler. We have our usual two hydro-flask bottles with water and fruit, too. Since I bought a beach lounge on Crete, I carried that across three islands and Waynette has a folding chair and her noodle for the water.

Plaka beach is at the end of the bus line, about a 20 minute or so ride from our stop. The beach is considered “organized,” and by Greek standards, there are umbrellas and chairs. The water was clam and ideal for kids and families.

Plaka is also an international beach. If you walk about 100 meters, or about 300 feet, the beach is clothing optional. Those who wish to get an all-over tan are happy campers.

The color of the sand is golden and fine. Unlike beaches on Crete and Santorini, there is no true sand beaches but only pebbles and rocks. The sand on Plaka is similar to the beaches in California and simply the best we found. The water is that teal and emerald color and no rocks or slopes down into the water.

The only negative was the wind today and it had to be blowing 25 to 45 MPH, and an occasional gust. No one was in the water but the day was spectacular. Low humidity, not a cloud in the sky and a warm, delicious summer sun. We caught the 5 o’clock bus back but missed our stop. We ended up on the port, normally about a 15-20 minute walk. Since this was the first time for us, we wandered through the back way and the walk from the dock was double the time.

After showers, we headed out to dinner.

A quick word on Greek cuisine. Waynette had has moussaka several times and I’ve stuck to the chicken soulavkki. The portions in Greece are enormous and we quickly came to the conclusion Greeks love to eat. I love fries but the amount given for one serving could be enough for two or three people. Plus, a Greek salad, by itself, is the perfect lunch.

On the way back from the beach and at the port, we hired a car for Monday. There are a few archological sites and villages worth seeing on Naxos and I’ m sure we’ll find time to hit a beach on the east coast. We’re taking the car for only one day and Tuesday, we’ll head back to Plaka beach.

We leave Naxos on Wednesday and have a 10:40 a. m. ferry to Mykonos.

WEATHER – sunny, low 80s, very windy.

PICTURES FROM TODAY – Images from Naxos, the beach at Plaka.

Saturday September 21, 2019

NAXOS, Greece – Hello, everyone. It’s been two weeks since the last blog and there are a few reasons.

First, daily activity. We spent the last two weeks on Crete and by the time we arrived back to where we stayed, frankly, I was way too tired to start writing around 11 each night.

Yet, there was a far more dominating reason. My laptop simply died. Just a few days into the trip, the screen would not illuminate and the option of writing the blog on Waynette’s iPad loomed as a real possibility. Along the way, I clandestinely hoped to have this unit repaired. While I was optimistic, I was willing to wait until I returned the states, get a new laptop and transfer the data from this unit.

Here’s what happened. On Friday, the 20th, we found a small computer shop around the corner from our hotel in Santorini. The guy pulled apart the back of the unit, said I need a new battery and the memory card froze. He then cleaned up a few things, charged 5 euros, and said just use your power plug. We arrived on the island of Naxos late Saturday afternoon and the women from whom we are renting an airBNB met us at the dock. The apartment is terrific and as soon as we settled in and received wifi information, I was curious if my laptop would operate.

Alas, lights and action. So, I’m back in business.

The new battery is definitely on the radar screen but because we’re in the middle of the Aegean Sea, the computer guy said it takes several days to order a part. So, I’ll wait until we arrive in Istanbul and find a computer store. That should not be too difficult in a city of 12 million people. We’re scheduled there from October 7 to the 14th.

Now, the travel part.

We just spent two weeks on the island of Crete. We did have a car for the two weeks and traveled throughout the island. We did travel to several beaches and each had its own characteristics. One was Elafosini, with dramatic pink sand. There were also were two dramatic effects.

First, the color of the water. It is beyond spectacular with a combination of emerald green, teal and turquoise. Each time I went into the water, the amazement was compounded. Plus, the temperature was delightful, upper 70s, I would guess. For the most part, the beaches on Crete are rocky and you definitely need rubber water shoes. We hit main beaches on the west coast and Vai, the largest palm tree forest in Europe on the far east coast, next to the Via beach.

Then, there is the drive. Crete is predominately mountains and driving along the coast is dramatic. There are great vistas and when when the sun hits the water, the color is spectacular. Having driven the Big Sur in California, Amalfi Drive in Italy and the Great Ocean Route in Australia, the drive along the coasts of Crete are more dramatic.

Among historic sites on Crete, we managed to see the two most important venues on the island.

First, there was the former leper colony at the island of Spinalonga, which is only accessed by boat. You pick this up from Elounda and it’s about 20-25 minutes to the island. The ride out and walking around the colony has a feel of being on Alcatraz. Lepers began arriving the early 20th century and were housed there until 1957. This was originally built as a military fortress in the late 16th century and fortifications around the structure are still in place.

We also visited the Palace at Knossess, on site of the oldest city on the planet. The site has been inhabited for more than 7,000 years and the place remains as a treatment to the Minoan civilization.

The Minoans contributions were two-fold.

First, they developed early pottery and made important advancements in design, size and function. Too, they built early great palaces, of which Knossess remains. The Minoans are considered pre-ancient and pre-date Greek antiquity.

The palace was originally constructed in 1900 BC but destroyed by a earthquake. The second palace was destroyed in a fire and lay undiscovered until the early 20th century. That’s when Arthur Evans, a British archaeologist who studied the Minoan civilization, came across Knossess in northern Crete, about 7 kilometers south the port city of Irakleio.

Evans reconstructed the palace as he thought would have taken place, in terms of housing, administrative enters and social gathering locations, and historians have not questioned him. Since no written records remain, Evans’ assumptions have taken without question.

From Crete, we took the ferry to Santorini, noted for those sun-splashed white houses and blue-domed churches. For my money, Santorini is overrated and we found the place over-crowded with tourists and money-grabbing taxi drivers. A day-trip from a neighboring island fits the bill. When the ferry docks, you’re immediately hit with a thousand guys screaming for you to climb into their vehicles. From the port, it’s a ride straight up the side of a mountain to the main town of Fira. There, you’re met with small streets of shopkeepers selling everything from tee-shirts, jewelry to gyros and geleto. That’s pretty much nothing you need.

We spent two nights and parts of three days and that was enough. We overheard more Americans than on Crete and rationalized Santorini was simply a tourist trap.

On Saturday, we arrived in Naxos, which is supposed to have some of the longest beaches, in terms in length, in the Cyclades.

Sorry I didn’t write every day and give more details. At this point, I’m just happy to have my laptop back and continue the blog.

About the weather … it’s been amazing. Each day, it’s between 85 and 90s, shorts all the time. It was windy the first few days in Crete and the water was rough. Once the wind died down, the water became calm and perfect for swimming.

We did take ferries out to two of the noted beaches outside of the Crete mainland. One was Balos and we also took a boat to Chrissy Island. Both were spectacular and the color of the water continued to captivate me.

We have the next four days on Naxos and then four on Mykonos. We hope to leave for Turkey by Sept. 29 or 30.

Saturday September 7, 2019

AKROTIRI, Greece – Guess I lost this one.

Betting even money that Anna, the car rental lady, would not show up at the appointed hour on Saturday morning, she actually rang our doorbell around 10:30. Explained she called but Waynette said we never received the call. We arranged for Anna to text us about exchanging cars, but she never did. So, she rode around for one hour and then saw our car parked on property. We quickly exchanged cars and were off to find beach chairs.

Anna said she would text us with a few stores but that never happened. Instead, we started off for Chania and hoped to get to the beach at a reasonable hour. Having no idea which stores we would find or even if beach chairs were still available here in the September shoulder season, we started off. We agreed that if we saw a beach inflatable, we would stop and that might indicate chairs could be available.

First, we stopped on a wide street and pulled over when we saw a stack of beach chairs. The owner pulled out the price tag, 32 euros for a small sand chair and we quickly concluded that was outrageous.

Down the street, we saw a stack of patio furniture and the price for a plastic chair was 10 euros. Okay, were getting closer but thought the purchase was impractical. Because we wanted to carry the chars on ferries with us and for use on other beaches in the Aegean, that purchase made no sense When we started to walk away, the old woman who approached as the sales person began screaming in some language, and Waynette thought she wanted to negotiate with us.

After a fruitless walk of a few blocks, we stopped at bakery for bread and small pastry. Back in the car, we GPS a hardware store which we thought might have outdoor beach stuff. Along the way, we stopped at another small shop with beach inflatables and Waynette jumped out and into the store. She came running back, beyond excited and said the clerk told us of a huge variety store which definitely have beach chairs.

After making a right into a major street, we came across the store, Jumbo’s, and the place was one of the most amazing stores. Thousands of items over two floors and the prices were terrific. The store is a combination of a Wal-Mart and the old neighborhood 5 and 10 cent store and Waynette said, even in her years in retailing, she never came across a store like Jumbo’s.

Quickly, Waynette picked up an upright folding chair, which folds back into its canvas case, and I picked up a beach lounge for 20 euros. We then purchase a few things for the house and by this time, it was after 2:00 on a perfect, sunny beach day. Instead of trying to find a new beach, we agreed to return to the beach at Stavros, the beach made famous in the “Zorba the Greek” film.

After a few hours, and around 6, we drove back, showered and agreed to go into old town Chania for the night. Stopped an outdoor café where we each ordered a chicken gyro, fries and drink. Then, we found a gelato place for dessert and made two purchases of sunglasses for me and a small bottle of balsamic honey for a salad that we’re taking to the beach on Sunday.

Old town Chania, positioned along the waters of the Aegean, is quintessential old Europe, with narrow streets just wide enough for a few people. Arches and columns can be founded at intersections and the small, angular streets are filled with restaurants and shops. If anyone wants to see Europe through the lens of a resident, wander about old town Chania and no one cannot be disappointed.

WEATHER – 90, sunny

STEPS – 6,700

Thursday September 5, 2019

CHANIA, Greece – To say the day began uneventful would be a gross understatement.

Before the sun rose over Athens airport, we were out a quick $200 and there was nothing to prevent this amount. While we plan everything, including transportation, hotels, museums, food stops and the other myriad of conditions which effect any trip, there are bound to be roadblocks and mines along the way.

Our second full day in Europe presented a set of these challenges.

First, there was the matter of getting to airport. When we arrived Tuesday night in Athens, we bought a three-day Metro pass and wanted to use this to travel back to the airport. That would be for a flight to Crete and a stay of two weeks on that island.

Turns out the Metro began running for the day at 5:30 a.m. and we had to be at the airport at 6 for an 8 a.m. flight. So, we arranged for a taxi which set us back 50 euros for the ride. If the time was proper, we would have used our Metro passes.

At 5:30 a.m., the cabbie appeared in a bright yellow Mercedes and helped us load the luggage and backpacks into the car. The ride was about 45 minutes to the airport, and along the way, he told us he was from Corfu, an island located off the northwest coast of Greece. Said he was in Athens the past 11 years and misses his hometown. When asked why he has not returned, he has a two-word answer, “boss lady.”

“You mean, your wife,” Waynette said, and he simply nodded his head and laughed. He explained a return to Corfu would happen soon and leave Athens, with wife in hand, for good. Though the expense of 50 euros was tough to swallow, the driver was entertaining and the ride to the airport moved quickly.

Flying the Crete on Thursday morning from Athens, I downloaded our boarding passes to my phone and even the departure gate appeared. Since we each had to check one bag each, we proceeded through to baggage. At the desk, we presented our passports and I showed the boarding passes on my phone. The clerk held Waynette’s passport and said she could not board. In amazement and wonder, I questioned why, and the clerk said, “your ticket says Mrs. Mark Brown.” But, Waynette presented her passport. The clerk responded that the name on the ticket is not the same and does not say “Waynette. You’ll have buy another ticket for this flight. Go see the customer service counter over there,” she pointed.

After tapping fingers on the keyboard, the clerk at Customer Service said, very coldly, “that will be 114 euros. Are you checking a bag?” What, was our answer. “If you want to fly on this plane, I have to cancel your previous reservation and book a new ticket. Plus, placing you bag, that’s 141 euros.” No refund on the original 40-euro ticket!

With that, Waynette handed over a credit card and we waited to board. Once on the plane, we settled in and I took a window seat. A few minutes later, the flight attendant asked to see our tickets. Apparently, we were in the wrong seats and that turned out to be the case. The people whose seats where we sat said they would sit in our assigned seats. That was the row behind. Great, we thought to ourselves, and all of this before 8 a.m. What else can go wrong? More “good” things awaited.

The flight from Athens to Crete took only 50 minutes and we then took a public bus, 2 euros, 50 for each, to downtown Chania, the largest city on the island and our destination from Athens.

Just outside of Chania, we booked an air-BNB apartment but could not enter the property until after 3 p.m. Current tenants had a checkout time of 12 noon and the hostess said she needed time to clean the apartment. We landed at 9 and had six hours to drag our bags around a foreign city. The bus left us off at the bus station and we went inside the terminal and grabbed a drink. Since we had difficulty communicating with the air-BNB host, who, by the way said her property was on a road with no street number, we thought the property was isolated and no public bus was anywhere near.

At that point, we decided to rent a car, something we both objected but rationalized we were in a dire situation. There was a rental car storefront across from the bus station, so we popped in a get an estimate. Over the next 30 minutes, we managed to get a car, standard transmission only, and we could pick this up any time after three. By this time, it was around 12 noon and we decided to wander into the old town of Chania.

The island of Crete was important in Greek ancient times and the Palace of Knossos, dating back to 1900 BC, is restored. The town of Chania, which dates back to pre-ancient Crete, was controlled by the Romans, the Byzantines, Venetians, the Turks and Egyptians over the centuries. Walking down to the waterfront and back to the car rental location, we saw many archeological excavations and evidence of an early civilization. There are also ruins from a German bombardment in 1941 in Germany’s quest to conquer Crete.

By mid-afternoon, we were picked up the car and started out for the air BNB property. Anna, the clerk at the car rental, was a jovial woman from Romania, but demanded money up front. That was $350 and another 50 euros in cash because we’ll drop the car off at Irakleio, a port city where we plan to catch the ferry to Santorini in two weeks.      Since Waynette was too stressed out from the $600 hit we took today, I drove and operated a stick shift for the first time in over 30 years. Not only did have to get the rhythm down between the clutch and the gas, the ability to navigate through narrow European streets, darting pedestrians and drivers who make their own lanes, the challenge was, well, “a challenge.”

Yet, we managed, found the property and the host met us warmly. The apartment is terrific, with a modern flair and all the amenities. Once settled, we grabbed a quick snack and set out to explore the closest beach, about a 10-minte drive. The beach was short and not terribly inviting. From there, we proceeded into Chania and found a supermarket and stocked on eggs, veggies, a case of Coke Zero and snacks for the beach.

On Friday, we’ll meet Anna from the car rental, to exchange cars around 8:30. I’m taking even money the woman never shows up. Then, we’ll venture off an unknown beach for the day.

NOTE – At this point, I’m learning to place photos in the blog. It’s a little different from the 2018 blog, so for the first several entries, there are no pictures. Hope to correct this shorty. Thanks very much for your patience.

TEMP – low 90s, partly sunny, humid

STEPS – 10,210

Friday, September 6, 2019

STAVROS, Greece – True to our thoughts, Anna, the rental car lady, did not call nor text at the appointed 8:30 p.m. hour. Instead, we called and was told the exchange of cars would take place Saturday morning. Since we had no input into the matter, we confirmed the time and proceeded to plan for a beach day.

For our initial visit to a Crete beach, we selected Stavros, about a 15-20-minute drive just north of our apartment. While Waynette gathered some cheese sandwiches, fruit and water for the cooler, I checked out Stavros. Turned out the final scene of “Zorba the Greek,” with Anthony Quinn, Irene Pappas and Alan Bates was filmed on this beach. The beach is named “Zorba’s Beach,” and two posters from the film adorn both sides of a formal, signed entrance.

The beach, semi-circle in formation, seems carved out of an inlet, and a narrow waterway leads to the sea. Across the waterway is a rising mountain and the pink color, in spots, reminded us of parts of Sedona. We found a small cove off the main beach and set down our towels and cooler. Directly ahead, we faced ridges of jagged rock and waves from the sea dramatically crashed.

Navigating through rock formations and heavy sediments of salt, as the water contained a very high salt content, we walked to the edge of the rocks for a closer look at the sea. Along the way, we discovered steps and retaining walls made from slabs of rock and believe this are remains of a pre-ancient Minoan settlement. The Minoans settled in Crete from around 1900 B. C. to 1700 B. C. and were important in the development of pottery and construction of great palaces.

Along the beach, the water was a turquoise, Caribbean teal and the temp, we thought, was near 80. With the weather as a typical beach day, near 90 degrees, the water was delightful.

On the beach, we spread out two towels but agreed we need beach chairs. Once we left the beach, around 5 p.m., we went beach shopping. Waynette found an umbrella but we were told chairs were not available in any beach store in Stavros. “You can get those in Chania,” was the common refrain. After we settle with Anna and the car situation, we’ll seek out chairs.

After Waynette “face-timed” with Lindsay in Florida for about one hour, we showered and headed out to dinner. We settled on Pournaras Loannis Georgois, an outdoor restaurant on our way to Stavros. The setting was typical “beach environment,” with tables outside and teal-painted fence, stairs and tables. A fishing boat was suspended from the entrance and the menu was fish-oriented, an entre we both wanted.

Waynette ordered a fish in the bass family and I ordered bass. Both were grilled to perfection and we enjoyed cutting off the head and extracting the bones. Overall, the fish was excellent, and we agreed this could be one of the better dinners on the trip.

As is the custom in Europe, our dinner lingered for over two hours and we returned about 11:30. Our apartment is equipped with a combination washer-dryer, so we did laundry. Before bedtime, Waynette continued reading a novel on her iPad and wrote the daily blog.

WEATHER – sunny, 90 degrees

STEPS – 1,724

Wednesday September 4, 2019

ATHENS, Greece – With Hurricane Dorian looming over the entire state of Florida, the only concern was simply trying to get out.

We had an 8:40 p.m. flight out of Miami Monday September 2, and our eyes were glued to the television for updates. With the final destination as Athens and a four-hour layover in Istanbul, our anxiety was through the roof. Only when a myriad of forecasters pointed the storm was headed north and away from south Florida were our concerns abated.

By 10:30 Monday a.m., the morning our departure, news reports indicated the airport at nearby Fort-Lauderdale would close at 12 noon. At the same time, there was no mention of the Miami. Originally, we booked a car from the Tampa airport and planned to drive to the Miami airport on Monday, the day of flight. Because of the impending storm, we cancelled that reservation and decided to drive to Miami on Sunday. That way, and if we were struck in the area, he felt we had a reasonable chance to get to the Miami airport. So, we booked a room at the Hampton Inn in Coral Springs and took a chance the airport would not close.

When the news of the hurricane passing south Florida became more favorable, we drove to the airport and returned our car by 12 noon. Then, waited at the airport. Turns out, everything was fine, but the initial leg of the flight was delayed. We left Miami about 9:30 and flight to Istanbul was smooth. The flight to Athens was also delayed and we arrived in Greece around 10 p.m., local time.

Having visited Athens before, we pretty much knew our way around the metro system and took public transportation from the airport to our hotel. Arriving hot and sweaty, we both took showers and don’t remember falling to sleep; we were that tired.

Overall, the trip took about 27 hours and half-way around the world. Needless to say, we missed breakfast at the hotel but started out exploring our neighborhood in Athens.

Street food stands abound, and choices and flavors are so much different than anything available in the United States We passed one store, which had a sign in English, “we Greeks love to eat.”

In our street travels, Waynette found a juice bar and quickly ordered a pomegranate and mango smoothie. She could not rare about the juice guy or his drink enough. We gobbled down a few sandwiches from a café and polished that off with fresh pastries from a bakery we passed along the way.

Eventually, we made our way to the National Archaeological Museum, which is over 150 years old. On a previous trip, we went to the Acropolis Museum and that’s devoted only to materials found near the Parthenon. The Archaeological Museum is much more inclusive to Greece and covers the country from pre-ancient times through the decline of Roman rule in Greece during the 6^th century AD. This museum is well done with a plethora of information panels and a special exhibit on the importance of beauty in ancient Greece.

We then set off to find a restaurant near the U. S. Embassy. We went there on our previous visit to Athens and loved the food. The place is still there and we had a great dinner. We shared a Greek salad. Yes, a real Greek salad which contains no lettuce.

Do you hear that, American restaurants!

Waynette ordered stuffed tomatoes and I took chicken skewers, which hung over the plate. Plus, the wifi was great and we were able to catch up on e-mails and texts.

Because we have a flight Thursday at 8 a.m. Thursday morning for Crete, we ordered a taxi to the airport. We wanted to take the metro, but it doesn’t run early in the morning. So, we hope to meet the cabbie at 5:30. The flight is only 50 minutes and the next blog should be from a beach on Crete.

WEATHER – sunny, low 90s

STEPS – 13,115

Thursday August 29, 2019

LAKELAND, Fla. – So, we’re sitting here in a hurricane watch and do not know if we will be able to travel on Monday, Labor Day in the U. S. That’s our departure to Europe and the start of a two-month journey to Greece, Turkey, Jordan, Israel and back to Athens. Plus, there is always the strong possibility to divert plans to other destinations.

There is a significant storm rushing across the Caribbean, and taking aim on the entire state of Florida. Our departure for Athens is slated for Monday night from Miami, and we have rented a car to drive to the airport. However, the forecast calls for the hurricane to take a direct hit on the eastern coast of Florida and not sure how Miami will be impacted. Our flight to Athens leaves from Miami and stops in Istanbul before heading on to Greece.

We’re flying Turkish airlines, and checked their web site for cancellation polices. As usual, the legalize is such that we’ll found out our options at the airport, and that’s assuming we make it that far. For now, news reports are ominous and the storm is scheduled to be significant.

Plus, our concerns double for Lindsay, our daughter here in Lakeland and where we are staying until our departure for Europe. If the storm is a major one, power and water are grave concerns and we have never experienced a hurricane before. The experience is novel on several levels and more challenging than we may believe. We need to stock up on water and non-perishables and wonder how she will survive.

Then again, the storm may not reach this far inland and the overall situation may not be as perilous as we think. We went through many snow storms but never encountered devastation to property and potential great loss of power in hot and humid Florida.

Now, we wait and hope!

Hi everyone …

Last year, I wrote a travel blog for our three months in Europe. For 2019, we’re continuing our journey and this time, we’re headed to new places and exciting destinations.

We leave in early September for two months. First stop is the island of Crete and island-hopping through the Aegean. Then, a ferry over to Turkey to see several of the great archaeological sites, on to Petra in Jordan, Israel and we conclude in Athens.

Like the posts from last year, I’ll try and write each day and post pictures. Of course, this depends on the strength of the wifi and if I’m unable to post on one day, I’l make up for that on subsequent posts.

Along the way, we encourage comments and also invite travel tips.

We leave September 2 from Miami and return Nov. 2, also into Miami.